Friday 4 July 2014

Route of the Sun, Manabi Coast

So a lot has happened in the last few months and I'm backtracking on my blog now but i'm starting where I left off and giving you an insight into my next adventure!

La ruta del sol, or route of the sun is a stretch of towns and villages stretching down Ecuador's pacific coast including the entire coast of the province of Manabi. So named the route of the sun as it is supposedly sunny every day (I visited a couple of times and I can confirm for the days I was there it was blinding sun and scorching heat), and is also famed for its coastal scenery. The best way to describe it is imagine Cornwall's craggy coastline punctuated with big golden sandy beaches and rocky headlands. Transport a palm tree saturated version of that to the year round tropical temperatures and azure seas of the equatorial pacific and put a sepia filter on it and you're pretty much there.

This region is the chillest place i've been to on Earth. Sea air, twinned with the heat and a relaxed south American attitude make everything seem so easy. We had to get the tyres of our car changed, we arrived at this place, tin roof and a few painted breeze blocks, the staff were chilling with a newspaper. Saying this half an hour later and less dollars than a UK tank of petrol later and we were all sorted.

jus' chillin

The northernmost point at which I started on the route was the city of Manta, after a 9 hour drive from Quito we arrived in the 'madrugada', around dawn time. We were initially in Manta to meet with a client, but as we arrived so early we decided to wander on to the beach. I was surprised by the large amount of people, walking, running, doing exercise or playing football. I'd quickly learn the reason for this is that at that time in the morning the temperature is a measly 25 degrees, nothing compared to the scorching heat of the midday sun! 

a morning haze
After the morning client meeting (which involved breakfast on the balcony of her house overlooking the pacific, not too shabby) we made our way back down onto the beach, where we decided to go on a (company dollar) speedboat trip around the harbour. Manta as a city is not spectacularly beautiful, and has a Benidorm vibe with concrete and glass apartments rising up behind the beach, but one really cool thing to see on the boat was all the fishing boats. Ecuador still has a thriving crab and fish market and Manta is one of the largest ports, jam packed with fishing and crabbing boats, as well as a number of container ships from around the world. It has a feeling a bit like the remaining fishing villages at home back in Britain, it makes me nostalgic. 

Civengtec looking dapper in orange


The sheer number of fishing boats here suggests that this would be an amazing place to get fresh fish dishes, and boy was I not disappointed. I am a sucker for a good fish dish and they do it so well here! Often the menu will tell you how a fish is cooked but it will depend what fish you get by season and availability, but it's all super fresh and I didn't have a bad meal. I can't say I 100% knew what much of the fish was I had or the names but it was all amazing! 

hut boat

So spending a (rather sweaty) night in Manta we took a drive down the coast the next day. You know when you think about your ultimate road trip, cruising down a tropical coastline, palm and banana trees on one side, gold sand on the other, punctuated by banana leaf huts, 33 degree sunshine and your favourite tunes on the radio. It was exactly that and I will never forget it. I'm a massive fan of driving (well being driven) and I love soaking up the views, but as a romantic, fleeting moment that leaves you wanting more and imagining you might never want to leave if you were to stop. 




Through San Lorenzo, Past Isla Salango, Puerto Lopez and more until we arrived at Montañita. I can't even begin to accurately describe the beauty of this region, the colours, the perfectly tranquil atmoshere, the hot sea air. All I can say is GO. I don't think Ecuador has the rep of some of the other South American countries but if you are nearby I implore you to go and explore this region! 
So now, Montañita, it deserves a post in itself, so all I'll say to round this off is imagine a hippy, middle class version of Magaluf or Zante. Watch out for it, it's coming next!


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